A damning report released by the environmental group Earthsight on Thursday has revealed that global fast fashion giants H&M and Zara have been sourcing cotton from farms in Brazil associated with extensive deforestation, land-grabbing, corruption, and violence.
Entitled “Fashion Crimes,” the report presents evidence gathered from satellite images, court rulings, shipment records, and undercover investigations. It exposes the sourcing practices of these companies, indicating that they have been obtaining cotton labeled as ethical by the Better Cotton certification scheme, despite its links to environmental and social abuses.
The cotton in question originates from the fragile Cerrado savanna, sourced by two major Brazilian agribusiness firms, SLC Agricola and the Horita Group. Earthsight’s investigation traced significant quantities of cotton—approximately 816,000 tonnes—exported between 2014 and 2023 to these farms, which have faced legal challenges and fines for their involvement in clearing vast expanses of Cerrado wilderness.
The cotton from these farms, located in the northeastern state of Bahia, was subsequently supplied to eight Asian clothing manufacturers, including H&M and Zara, highlighting the global reach of the issue.
Brazil, already renowned as a top exporter of beef and soybeans, has increasingly become a major player in the cotton industry, ranking second only to the United States. However, this expansion has come at a grave cost to the environment, particularly in the Cerrado, where rampant corruption and exploitation have led to the unlawful appropriation of public lands and displacement of local communities.
In response to the revelations, Better Cotton has pledged to conduct an independent audit of the concerns raised in the report, with Inditex (Zara’s parent company) and H&M expressing their commitment to addressing the allegations. They have called for the release of the auditors’ findings to ensure transparency and accountability.
Meanwhile, the Brazilian Cotton Producers’ Association (ABRAPA) has vehemently denied the allegations, stating that they provided evidence countering the report’s claims. Nonetheless, they have condemned any practices that undermine environmental conservation and violate human rights.
The Earthsight report serves as a stark reminder of the ethical and environmental implications of fast fashion, urging stakeholders to take decisive action to address the systemic issues within the industry and uphold sustainability standards.
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